Supervised Labeling Coming Soon to Olive Oil
What consumers should know about buying olive oil
By Kathy Stephenson
The Salt Lake Tribune
August 17, 2010 07:05PM
Two decades ago, the only place to buy a bottle of olive oil was a Greek or Italian specialty market.
Today, bottles of this healthy oil are sold everywhere, from local grocery stores to big-box warehouses. Each year, U.S. consumers spend $700 million on olive oil.
But with more choices has come an array of marketing terms such as “extra-virgin,” “cold-pressed,” “light” and “unfiltered.” Taken together, these labels can seem confusing and inconsistent, as in the past the product hasn’t been regulated by the federal government.
Why would we post an article on olive oil? This article is not only about olive oil, but also about the important role that government plays in labeling of food products. It is a prime example of what happens without government supervision.
Currently none of us know the true quality of olive oil. For years I’ve been buying ‘extra virgin’ because the nutritionists have indicated there is an important difference. Now I discover that ‘extra virgin’ may not be what it claims to be, and one thing is for sure, we cannot depend on the integrity of free enterprise corporations. That is the Law of the Jungle that so around here pray to every day.
From now we will all know to look for the USDA rating label before buying an olive oil.
For the average consumer, it can be difficult to figure out what these terms actually mean, as well as why one bottle of 100 percent extra-virgin olive costs $6, while another costs $20 or more.
The confusion could be ending soon, as the U.S. Department of Agriculture recently adopted a new set of standards. Companies are encouraged to adopt the USDA’s definitions to help consumers differentiate the best oils from the cheap imposters. The federal agency adopted the new regulations in April, and plans to start enforcing the standards in October, about the time olive trees are ready to harvest and pressing begins.
“These new standards are a step forward and closely align with international standards,” said Dan Flynn, executive director of the Olive Center at the University of California Davis. “The thing to keep in mind is that the USDA standards are voluntary. Those producers that have a USDA seal on their label will need to abide by the standards.”
Flynn isn’t sure how many companies will abide by the standards, but consumers should start looking and demanding the seal when shopping, much as they do with the green-and-white organic label found on certified organic products.
Extra-virgin olive oil is considered the premium in the category, as it has low acidity and contains the highest level of healthful fats and antioxidants. It also costs more.
The new regulations come just in time, as last month Flynn and researchers at the Olive Center reported that more than two-thirds of the common brands of extra-virgin olive found in California grocery stores weren’t actually what the label claimed.
Researchers tested 5 California brands and 14 popular imports, all labeled “100 percent extra-virgin olive oil.” The olive oils, which included the popular Bertolli and Pompeian brands, were purchased from Ralph’s, Safeway, Whole Foods markets and Wal-Mart.
Samples were put through blind tests for taste and smell, then subjected to a battery of chemical tests designed to uncover old or refined oils.
The results: 69 percent of the imported oil sampled and one of the 10 California-produced samples failed to meet acceptable standards. The samples failed for a variety of reasons, including exposure to heat and light, adulteration with cheaper oils, the use ofdamaged or overripe olives, processing flaws and improper storage.
Some organizations have criticized the report, saying the sample size was too small and it didn’t take into account details such as the date of collection, “best before date” labels and package types.
A few weeks after the report was issued, a group of California chefs, restaurants and cooking enthusiasts filed a complaint in Orange County Superior Court accusing several companies of diluting olive oil with cheaper alternatives while still branding it “extra-virgin.” The group is seeking an injunction to prevent the distribution of the questionable oil. They also want millions of dollars in restitution for “fraudulently obtained profits.”
The shady practices frustrate retailers such as Steven Rosenberg, owner of Salt Lake City’s Liberty Heights Fresh, who imports dozens of olive oils from around the world and gets to know the growers and producers of the products he sells.
“It’s pretty simple: you get what you pay for,” he said. “When supermarkets’ only appeal is low price, something is going to give. And what is going to give is the integrity of the product.”
The hardest part for many consumers to understand is that buying a good olive oil doesn’t require paying a lot of money, Rosenberg said.
“You can buy a great bottle of olive oil for $12 to $15,” he said, adding: “No one should eat bad olive oil and no one should sell bad olive oil.”
kathys@sltrib.com
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‘Extra-virgin’ olive oil know-how
Here are six ways consumers can ensure they are getting their money’s worth when buying extra-virgin olive oil:
Check the label • It should say “extra-virgin” olive oil, with a harvest or milling date within the last 12 months.
Check the bottle • Olive oil should come in a dark bottle to cut down on light exposure. Light dramatically shortens shelf life. Be on the lookout for dust or other signs that the bottle has been sitting on the shelf too long.
Look for a seal • If you’re buying an extra-virgin olive oil from California, look for a COOC seal. This ensures the olive oil is extra virgin, grown in California, and comes from the most recent harvest. The seal also means it has passed certain chemical analysis and taste tests. When the new USDA regulations take effect, there will also be a similar national seal.
Know your retailer • Buy from retailers who know producers, growers and importers. These experts also know how to care properly for oil. Specialty retailers also allow you to sample before you buy.
Buying online • When buying online, check for the harvest date, and always buy from the most recent harvest. Ask before you complete your purchase.
Storage • Keep extra-virgin olive oil away from light, air and heat. Use it as quickly as possible after opening.
Source • The California Olive Oil Council
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Know your olive oil
Not all olive oils are created equal. Here are some commonly found marketing terms that consumers should understand:
Extra-virgin olive oil • Oil from the first cold pressing of olives without refining. It contains 1 percent acidity and is considered the finest and fruitiest of olive oils. It’s also the most expensive.
Virgin olive oil • This oil, which also is from the first pressing, has a slightly higher acidity level, between 1 and 3 percent. While it’s not refined, it has a milder taste than extra-virgin olive oil.
Olive oil • A blend of lower-quality virgin olive oil, which goes through a refining process that creates a light-colored and flavored oil.
Light or mild • A variation of olive oil that’s highly refined, with the “light” referring to the taste and color. It has the same amount of calories and fat as other olive oils.
Blend • Added to virgin olive oil is a less expensive vegetable oil, such as canola. This product is less expensive than pure olive oil.
Cold-pressed • The process that uses pressure — not heat — to extract the oil from the ripe olives. It produces olive oil with a low acidity.
Source • The Food Lover’s Companion and www.oliveoilsource.com.